Smugglers Bay Track: A Journey Through Northland’s Natural & Historical Taonga

Nestled within the Bream Head Scenic Reserve, the Smugglers Bay Track offers a captivating blend of natural beauty and rich history. With its diverse landscapes, from lush coastal forest to rocky shorelines and white sandy beaches, this track invites walkers of all abilities to experience the essence of Northland. As you step onto the trail, you follow in the sacred footsteps of Manaia and his descendants, connecting with the cultural and historical significance of this treasured location. Whether you’re drawn by the panoramic views, the vibrant birdlife, or the echoes of the past, Smugglers Bay is a destination that promises a memorable journey.

The Significance of Te Whara and Mt Manaia

The Bream Head Scenic Reserve, known as Te Whara, is a place of profound cultural and historical importance. For centuries, Te Whara and the nearby Mt Manaia have held special significance for the iwi of Te Tai Tokerau. Visitors to the reserve are reminded of this connection through the words inscribed on a plaque at the track’s entrance:

Māori text:
Ka kuhumai koe ki runga o ngā tapuwae o Manaia me ana uri whakatupuranga.

English translation:
You are about to follow the sacred footprints of Manaia and all of his descendants.

This area is rich with evidence of early Māori settlement, including shell middens, pā sites, and terraced hillsides that speak to its long history of habitation. For those who walk these trails, the journey is more than just a physical experience—it’s an opportunity to honour the stories and traditions that make Te Whara a taonga (treasure) of Northland.

Exploring the Track Options

The Smugglers Bay Track offers a range of walking experiences to suit all levels of fitness and adventure. Whether you’re after a leisurely stroll or a more challenging climb, the reserve’s diverse tracks showcase Northland’s stunning landscapes and historical features.

Smugglers Bay Loop Track

This 1 hour 30 minute loop takes you on a journey through farmland, along the coast, and into the tranquil bush. The route includes moderate climbs and steps, rewarding walkers with panoramic views and a peaceful stop at the picturesque Smugglers Bay beach, known for its golden sands and (usually) calm waters—ideal for picnics or a refreshing swim.

Seasonal highlights make this track even more memorable, with pōhutukawa trees bursting into vibrant red bloom during late spring to early summer and the lush greens of the forest refreshed by winter rains. A short detour to the end of Busby Head offers breathtaking views, including the Hen and Chick Islands, Whangārei Harbour and the Bream Bay coastline.

Direct track to Smugglers Bay

For a quick and easy option, this 15-minute walk crosses farmland and a small hill before descending into Smugglers Bay. Known for its serene atmosphere, the beach is perfect for those seeking a relaxed outing. The well-formed, step-free track makes it an accessible choice for walkers of varying abilities.

Gun Emplacement and Busby Head

A short 10-minute walk from the car park leads to the historic WWII gun emplacement, a relic of New Zealand’s coastal defence strategy during World War II. At the Battery Observation Post, visitors can explore the sighting mural and learn about its historical significance while enjoying panoramic views of Whangārei Harbour and landmarks like the Hen and Chicken Islands. The easy gradient of this track makes it suitable for families and those looking for a short, engaging walk.

Te Whara Track and Beyond

For the more adventurous, the Te Whara Track (which turns off the direct track to Smuggler’s Bay) offers a steep climb along the ridge to Mt Lion (Matariki), taking approximately 1 hour 10 minutes. While the ascent is challenging, the panoramic views from the top, stretching across the Bream Head Scenic Reserve and beyond, are a worthy reward. Walkers can continue along the ridge to Peach Cove, where steep, narrow steps lead to the secluded beach below. For an immersive experience, an overnight stay at the Peach Cove Hut can be arranged (in advance) through the Department of Conservation’s booking system. Those looking to extend their adventure can follow the track past the radar station to Ocean Beach, a journey that takes approximately 5 hours 10 minutes and offers many opportunities to appreciate the dramatic coastal scenery.
No matter which track you choose, the Smugglers Bay Track provides a chance to connect with the natural and historical treasures of Bream Head while enjoying some of Northland’s most stunning views.

Conservation and Ecological Highlights

The Bream Head Scenic Reserve is more than a picturesque destination—it’s a thriving ecosystem and a testament to the power of conservation. As one of the largest examples of coastal pōhutukawa broadleaf forest in Northland, the reserve is home to a rich variety of flora and fauna, including some of Aotearoa’s most treasured species.

A Haven for Wildlife

Visitors to the reserve can spot or hear iconic birds such as the tūī, bellbird, and New Zealand wood pigeon (kererū). With sustained conservation efforts, native species like the North Island robin (toutouwai) and kākāriki are making a comeback. Even the kiwi can be found here, along with rare invertebrates and grey-faced petrels.

Conservation in Action

The Bream Head Conservation Trust has played a pivotal role in restoring the area’s biodiversity. Formed in 2002, the trust works alongside the Department of Conservation (DOC), iwi (local tribes), and a dedicated community of volunteers to manage pests, enhance vegetation, and translocate native species. These efforts are restoring balance to the ecosystem, allowing birdlife to thrive without the need for predator-proof fences.

A Flourishing Ecosystem

Bream Head/Te Whara’s unique location between protected nature reserves like the Poor Knights and Hen and Chicken Islands makes it a natural corridor for species recolonisation. Combined with intensive pest control, the area has become a sanctuary where wildlife can flourish.

Whether you’re walking the tracks or soaking in the natural beauty, the return of birdsong and the flourishing forest are a reminder of what can be achieved through collective care and dedication.

Historical Significance

The Bream Head Scenic Reserve is steeped in history, offering visitors a glimpse into both its ancient Māori heritage and more recent wartime past. Walking these tracks allows you to experience layers of history that stretch back centuries.

Māori Settlements and Heritage

Evidence of early Māori habitation is scattered throughout the reserve. Shell middens, pā sites, and terraced hillsides speak to a time when the area was a thriving hub of activity. These remnants serve as a testament to the ingenuity and resourcefulness of the tangata whenua, who lived in harmony with the natural environment.

WWII Relics and Coastal Defence

The reserve’s role in New Zealand’s coastal defence during World War II is another significant chapter in its story. The gun emplacements and radar station at Busby Head were part of a strategic network protecting Whangārei Harbour from potential threats. The Battery Observation Post, complete with its sighting mural, offers a tangible connection to this period. These relics not only provide insight into New Zealand’s wartime history but also offer stunning views of the coastline, making them a must-see for history enthusiasts and casual walkers alike.

The historical significance of Bream Head makes it a place where past and present converge, allowing visitors to reflect on the stories that have shaped this unique corner of Northland.

Practical Information for Visitors

The Smugglers Bay Track offers a variety of experiences, making it an ideal destination for individuals, families, and groups. To make the most of your visit, here’s what you need to know.

Track Durations and Difficulty Levels

The reserve provides options for walkers of all fitness levels:

• Smugglers Bay Loop Track: 1 hr 30 min (return) with moderate climbs and steps.
• Gun Emplacement and Busby Head: 10 min (one way), an easy gradient suitable for families.
• Direct to Smugglers Bay: 15 min (one way), step-free and accessible.
• Te Whara Track and Beyond: Steeper, more challenging routes for experienced walkers.

What to Bring

• Comfortable footwear: Tracks range from gentle farmland to rugged bush trails.
• Weather-appropriate clothing: Conditions can change quickly, especially along the ridge.
• Food and water: There is no access to fresh water after leaving the carpark, so come prepared for your journey.
• Camera or binoculars: The views and wildlife are not to be missed.

Safety Tips

• Supervise children: Some tracks include steep drop-offs and rocky outcrops.
• Check conditions: Avoid the Te Whara Track in wet or windy weather due to its challenging terrain.
• Respect wildlife and vegetation: Stick to the tracks to protect the reserve’s delicate ecosystem.

Facilities and Accessibility

• A car park is available at the track’s entrance.
• There are no toilets on the tracks themselves, so plan accordingly.
• Nearby attractions include Ocean Beach and other scenic spots in Whangārei Heads.

Best Times to Visit

The tracks can be enjoyed year-round, but summer is particularly popular for beach visits and pōhutukawa blooms. Early mornings or late afternoons are ideal for avoiding the midday sun and enjoying the tranquillity.

The Smugglers Bay Track offers something for everyone, whether you’re looking for a peaceful escape into nature or an adventure steeped in history.

Explore and Protect Northland’s Treasures

The Smugglers Bay Track is more than just a walk; it’s an invitation to experience the natural beauty and historical depth of Northland. Whether you’re drawn to the serenity of Smugglers Bay, the panoramic views from Busby Head, or the stories etched into the land and sea, this track offers something for everyone.

As you explore, remember to respect the environment and contribute to its preservation by following the track guidelines and leaving no trace. Plan your adventure on the Smugglers Bay Track and take the opportunity to connect with one of Northland’s most treasured taonga.